Springtime arrives every year during the unwelcomed extension of winter weather here in Ireland. However, the colours and designs of S/S 2016 are here to brighten our days to the fullest. Now, I know it can be hard for us all to let go of those comforting winter colours such as burgundy, khaki and black but fear not, this season is bursting with so much freshness you’ll be bursting to pop out those bright colours.
Year after year, the usual florals and the pastels are re-introduced, almost as if the fashion world heavyweights use them as a security blanket – if the collection is too out there or not creative enough they chuck a few pastels in to make it more appealing. S/S16 is a whole new ball game, the stakes have been raised and the designers rose to the challenge.
Step forward Astrid Andersen with he Spring collection that took the catwalks to a whole new level of cool. Astrid Andersen, a Danish-born designer based in London, wanted to take the dated print trend and turn it into a work of art – and in the making evidently created a masterpiece. Speaking at the collection launch Andersen revealed that the latest collection was inspired by a recent trip to Shanghai, a trip that would change the collection forever. While gathering all relevant information Andersen also took inspiration from her favourite 80’s film Big Trouble in Little China.
Anderson is no stranger to street wear; previous collections have been filled with loose fitted joggers, basketball shirts and the usual trench coats for Autumn/Winter. Although Andersen has used pastel tones in the collection it almost makes it a stronger body of work because the tones are used to subtly that you barely even notice, the main focus on this collection is the print, a totally unique print trend that will catch your eye the minute you step outside the door. The print is very in your face, a splendid mix of both flowers (shocking) and ancient Chinese designs printed on both shiny silk and mesh materials. The idea of mesh and silk in the same sentence for a Spring collection almost screams career suicide, but off paper it works and brings a truly inspiring collection to life. Anderson has blocked these two materials and has created something so unique and different – from the bomber jackets to the silk trousers to the crew neck jumpers, the print designs on these items have created a very different S/S16, using soft pastels and electric blues and yellows with her statement logo plastered amongst the items, and the ancient Chinese symbols come into play very discreetly, making the collection a must have for any fashion follower this season.
While we’re all looking for the next big groundbreaking thing, Christian Pellizzarri has taking a tradition and put his own spin on things. Let’s cast our minds back to Milan Fashion Week where it was the finer details that mattered, elegant evening wear with detailed print to rock the fashion world. Christian Pellizzarri also had a similar idea of incorporating the ancient Chinese theme into his collection, however he also decided to add a soft touch of 17th century home decor. It sounds crazy but it totally works.
The collection is aimed at the more sophisticated man; the immaculate tailoring on the suits is impeccable and the added detail of the print sets it all off perfectly.
It wasn’t all serious suits and prints though; the collection actually has a very fun element which we can all relate to. They collection also introduced us to the very fun two piece stripe print suit.
The suit’s zebra effect was a sure fire hit on the runway in Milan and was the talk of the night, funked up by replacing the typical tailored blazer with a fresh bomber jacket with a large C symbolizing Pellizzarris studio, finished off with a loose trouser and tied at the waist with a khaki coloured string belt. Although Pellizarri did technically stick to the basic floral print for spring he also brought a totally unique twist to it, turning basic florals into exquisite evening suits and making a collection that will stand the test of time. The rich tones of blue and gold he used on the final pieces of the collection were truly a testament to the designer and his team.
Looking forward to S/S16, it seems the fashion world is going through a change. The designers featured have taken our expectations and completely spun them on their head, if S/S16 is anything to go by my hopes are high for 2017. It’s never easy to pin point one designer because we all have something to learn from every single designer out there, whether they’re unknown or A-list. Fashion isn’t just how you wear it, fashion is a state of mind.
Words – Evan Considine
Images – Astrid Andersen